“Subconsciously, hearing these stories planted a seed for every time I wear eyeliner to have more fun, kismet, and adventure.”Īn intense generational connection has a way of becoming ritual as well. “Her advice? Just the right amount of eyeliner and lip is enough,” says Shiu. Model Steph Shiu, who walked Eckhaus Latta’s open-air show in Bushwick last month wearing makeup artist Fara Homidi’s nearly translucent liner and bold orange lip, recalls her mother “gloating about the escapades of her Hong Kong disco-queen nights. She calls herself a “forever eyeliner girl,” inspired by ’60s Bollywood films. I’m Indian, so literally as a toddler I wore surma,” says Chicago-based womenswear designer Azeeza Khan, referring to the traditional kohl. In everyday life, the expressive power of a sooty, darkened gaze is sometimes passed down like a family heirloom. For a Milan performance commissioned by The Attico last month, Louise referenced Liza Minnelli and “exaggerated my cat eye dramatically.” It’s something of a meta experience to watch Megan Louise, of the synth-pop band Desire, perform, in the way that she evokes iconic musicians like Amy Winehouse and Nina Hagen. Modern formulas, like the Lord & Berry liner Cohen uses today, do their best to wrap staying power into one handheld tool-even if they’re often used as a through-line to the past. “He had it on good authority that Pavarotti used the same spray fix and reckoned, ‘If it works on him, it’ll work on me!’” “We used a lot of greasepaint, powder, and about half a can of Kryolan spray fix,” says Cohen of Divine’s secrets for stay-put eye makeup. In the mid-1980s, it was the late performer Divine who taught London-based makeup artist and Face Lace founder Phyllis Cohen how to do his signature eyeliner ahead of a BBC performance of the song “You Think You’re a Man.” “I hadn’t done makeup like that before, where the actual structure of the eyes was totally disregarded,” remembers Cohen, describing a style originally created by makeup artist Van Smith and immortalized onscreen in the John Waters canon. Are we all, at our cores, emo? There’s certainly an element of emotional expression to eyeliner that could explain why 2021 has seen a surge in online searches for the beauty staple-though the best versions are often discovered by word of mouth.
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